With such wonderful weather this year and the forecast looking good – the lure of campervan life meant we could not resist another trip to one of our favourite counties.
With our first campsite booked, we hit the road to Sennen – a wonderful expansive beach much loved by surfers. We booked the Trevedra Farm site (See where to stay blog) which is just above Gwynver Beach.
On arrival and after setting up the van we couldn't wait to get down to the beach and as we approach the steps down a pitcturesque little path we were greeted by a fantastic view of the bay, golden sand, surfers and lifeguard flags fluttering in a surprisingly warm breeze. The steps down were fairly steep but we were rewarded with a glorious beach - we even ventured into the sea – for a paddle admittedly but it was a treat to be able to get the boots and socks off and feel the sand between our toes.
After a long walk we got back to Hygge and with tea in hand – watched the light aircraft taking off and landing at the nearby Lands End Airport – the planes only fly in out a few times a day – so not a nuisance and it is a always good to see them as they make their way over from the Isles of Scilly just over the water. In fact we can see the islands on the horizon. (We enjoyed a visit to this unique archipelago some years ago. The beaches are fantastic and the boat trips round the islands are well worth taking.)
The next day and with the tide out we took a relaxing walk along Gwynver Beach along to Sennen. We got there just in time for a coffee on the terrace of the Surf Beach Bar café where we watched the surf school in action.
As the weather was still warm and sunny we decided to stay in Cornwall for a while longer, and with a quick bit of evening research we found a site near St Agnes– Trevellas Manor Farm (see where to stay). We had wanted to revisit St Agnes as my (Garry) ancestors are from the town and there are a number of records to search through at the delightful and award winning St Agnes Museum.
Driving back up from Sennen we took a detour to follow the signs to the intriguingly named village of Treen. We spied a campsite sign and went to investigate. Sited close to the SW coastal path the site looked really well laid out, with hedges to separate the pitches and plenty with sea view. It looks like an Eco style set up –and it has definitely gone on the list for our next Cornish excursion.
While we were there we walked from the site towards the sea, and the path opened up on to the SW Coast path and a superb view of Logan’s rock. There is a wonderful piece of history associated with the rock which has a balanced stone, which apparently weighs 80 tons but in 1824 it was deliberately dislodged by a group of British seaman. There were complaints from local residents and the seamen were forced to restore it at a cost of £130. Looking in the other direction we were treated to a view over the bay to the Minack Theatre and the wonderful Porthcurno Beach one of the best beaches in Cornwall we would say. (A few naked bottoms were spied on the nudist beach!)
Alas we had to leave this wonderful village and its little cafe ( apparently we had just missed Poldark filming the previous day), but we were not disappointed when we arrived at Trevellas. It was a great find – open views out to the sea and overlooking the rock - A Man and His Man. We were lucky as we got in for the last few days before they shut up the site for the winter. As a result we were one of only a couple of vans there.
The following day we set out along the wonderful SW Coast Path to walk over to St Agnes – it is a hilly walk so good boots are called for but well worth the effort. We found the Blue Hills Tin Mine on the way – it is a family run, working tin mine it was fascinating to hear about the mining and smelting process and the items they produce are magical and we could not resist buying a little souvenir of a Cornish engine house which is now added to our little collection of mementos we keep in the van.
The walk to St Agnes includes a rocky incline with a gate at the bottom which has the Motor Cycle Club logo emblazoned across it – it appears they stage regular motor cycle hill climbs over this treacherous terrain.
St Agnes is a bustling little town with a mix of its historic past and the surfing lifestyle. We had a coffee and a mega hot chocolate at The Driftwood Spars café. It looks like it is a converted shipping container with seating at the front as well as on the roof – great for just sitting and looking out to sea.
We had a stroll around the town and also visited the museum – which had even more exhibits than the last time we visited. Caroline spent a good hour or so looking through the family records and finding out more about my family history.
Sad to move on but with the campsite closing we chose a site on the other coast between Looe and Polperro. Camping Caradon – well located for touring the area. We had a very unusual visitor to our pitch whilst here the wonderfully named Pale Tussock Caterpillar - we took photos. See where to stay.
We were excited to be revisiting Looe as we had both holidayed here as children but it has become quite commercialized and barely recognizable as the quaint fishing village we remembered. The beach is still lovely as is the one off banjo pier. Far better and the best place to enjoy the scenery is Hannafore West Looe, which has a long promenade beside the sea with plenty of free parking – we prepared lunch in the van and ate it overlooking Looe Island and then grabbed tea and cake at the Island View café by the Tennis Club.
Polperro we discovered has retained its old fashioned heritage, partly due to the fact that you have to park in the huge car park in the valley and walk down into the village. So a visit out of season is relaxing and enjoyable. The town seems to be developing an artistic vibe with galleries and art schools. As well as some good cafes – we combined both at Coffee Cake Create which has a pleasant relaxed atmosphere. We walked along the S W coastal path a way and enjoyed the late sunshine.
The next day we took a trip out to Restormel Castle – which was once owned by The Black Prince and is set in a quiet rural setting with lovely views over Lostwithiel. – which we enjoyed as we picnicked on a bench in the grounds.
We decided to explore the Rame Peninsular as neither of us knew this area at all. It was a delight with its wooded valleys and lovely beach at Seaton. It has the wonderful named village of Portwrinkle. You can drive down to Torpoint and catch the ferry over the Sound to Plymouth. There are some wonderful views and the NT owned Antony House.
We were sad to have to journey back home, but we did take the chance to stop off at Ashburton, which is a vibrant market town with a good selection of independent shops and an old fashioned tea room, which is well worth a visit.
We always find something new to enjoy in Cornwall and we are already planning our next visit – see a future blog!
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