The Black Isle, is unsurprisingly not Black nor an Island, but it does have the feel of being somewhat separated from mainland Scotland. A very fertile peninsular surrounded on three sides by water, with much of the land used for farming.
Our destination, Rosemarkie, is situated on the coast and the campsite is virtually on the beach, which means the views are wonderful but it can get a little windy at times.
We woke on our first morning and the sunrise from Hygge produced an amazing display of sparkling waves and dancing sunlight. We had been so lucky with the weather on this trip so far. By simply turning right along the beach and walking to Chanonry Point we were hoping to spot some dolphins as this is apparently the best place in Scotland to see them. Although we weren't lucky enough to see any, it was a spectacular place to sit and while away a morning admiring the views over to Fort George.
Here for three nights, I consulted one of my many guidebooks and we decided to walk up to the magical sounding Fairy Glen. Owned and managed by the RSPB, this peaceful two mile walk follows the stream through the glen, past mill ponds and waterfalls. Once the scene of ‘well dressing’ and flower decorating by local women, to ensure the fairies kept the village drinking water pure, this atmospheric glen walk was relaxing and wonderfully quiet, just tinkling water and bird song for company.
For more information
Whilst on the Black Isle we visited Fortrose Cathedral. Fortrose town and former royal burgh has a wonderful ruined 13thCentury cathedral. Destroyed by Cromwell (he did seem to blow up much of our heritage in the 17th Century), it is well worth a visit.
Fortrose also boasts a Golf Course and there are a couple of cafes to whet your whistle.
Day 2 of our short stay on the Black Isle and we visited Cromarty. Having heard of Cromarty on Radio 4’s Shipping Forecast, we were intrigued to discover what this place was like. A lovely town as it turned out, situated at the entrance to the deep natural harbor of Cromarty Firth. Cromarty was once the summer base of the home fleet but now overlooks an impressive group of oil rigs. These are ‘resting’ in the firth and conjure up spectacular images of the Martian invaders in War of the Worlds.
We picked up a Cromarty Trail leaflet and spent a few hours exploring. Cromarty is the birthplace of Hugh Miller, a geologist and writer born in the town in 1802. In the town are the cottage built by his great great grandfather and the house he lived in with his family, both now very interesting museums. There are many historical buildings including churches and chapels and winding narrow streets to explore. Look out for the ‘Greusaichean Chromba’s work benches’. There is also a working harbour, sandy bay and many small shops and cafes.
We drove the coast road back along the firth and enjoyed yet more wonderful views of the Highlands.
www.visitscotland.com- for more information on The Black Isle
The more time we spend in Scotland, the more we realised wherever we visit and settle down for a night or two we quickly decide we would be quite happy to stay a while longer. So we somewhat reluctantly packed up the next morning to leave the Black Isle and rejoin the A9 heading north up the east coast to our next stop - Brora.
Once on the A9 and after you cross the fantastic Cromarty Bridge, on your right is the well known and popular, Storehouse of Foulis. A farm shop and restaurant with outstanding views over the firth, we enjoyed a late breakfast and a beautiful view from our table in the garden.
Following the A9 along the north of the Cromarty Firth, past the Glenmorangie Distillary (no we didn’t take a tour), with wonderful views over Durnoch Firth towards Tarbat Ness, we dropped down along side Loch Fleet and on to our site at Brora.
Surrounded by broom covered hills including Bheinn Dhorain at 2060 ft and nestled against the golf course along the dunes of Brora Beach this was another perfectly located site.
Once set up we walked over the dunes and golf course and spent a happy afternoon on the pinky orange sands that made up the beach, sketching, paddling and in Garry’s case mainly sleeping!
An important piece of Scottish history
No one who visits the Highlands can do so without experiencing the impact of the history on this part of Scotland, it lives through every Munroe, Loch and Glen. The Highland clearances of the 18th and 19th centuries struck a chord with me.
Very simply the landowners decided that that they could make more money from sheep than villagers and proceeded to clear all the villages of people. They quite literally drove the families to the edge of the sea, leaving them to eek out a meager existence on infertile and inhospitable land. Many understandably took the ships to foreign lands such as Canada and America. Others ended up in places like Badbea Clearance Village, just north of Helmsdale, a truly desolate place, even on a relatively mild summers day when we visited. One can only imagine the hardships faced living perched on this cliff edge during the winter months, a truly barbaric act by the landowners, English and Scottish alike.
Travelling north on the A9 you pass The Emigrants Monument at Helmsdale commemorating those displaced during the clearances. It is worth making a stop in the car park here. The father modeled in this evocative statue, is looking northwards out to sea and to their future, whilst the Mother clutching her baby, looks longingly back, to the family and life they are leaving behind.
The inscription on the monument, in Gaelic and English, reads: "The Emigrants commemorates the people of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland who, in the face of great adversity, sought freedom, hope and justice beyond these shores. They and their descendants went forth and explored continents, built great countries and cities and gave their enterprise and culture to the world. This is their legacy. Their voices will echo forever thro the empty straths and glens of their homeland."
Tha na h-eilthirich a 'cuimhneachadh muinntir na Gàidhealtachd agus nan Eilean ann an Alba a bha, an aghaidh duilgheadas mòr, a' sireadh saorsa, dòchas agus ceartas thar na cladaichean sin. Chaidh iad fhèin agus an sliochd a-mach agus rinn iad rannsachadh air na mòr-thìrean, thog iad dùthchannan mòra agus mòr-bhailtean agus thug iad an iomairt agus an cultar don t-saoghal. Is e seo an dìleab. Bidh na guthan aca a 'faireachdainn gu bràth na srathan falamh agus na glinn aca fhèin. "
The Duke of Sutherland monument (one of the aforementioned landowners) looms large over the A9 and Golspie, another reminder of those terrible times.
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One other place we stopped off at on this part of the coast was Dunrobin Castle. It is one of the most northerly of Scotland’s great houses and one of the longest continuously inhabited houses in Britain. Occupied since the early 1300’s it has 189 rooms and is owned by the current Duke of Sutherland. An interesting house to wander around, I particularly enjoyed the nursery. Although the smell of cooked cabbage as you entered the front hall was a little off putting (I think they need to open the window a bit in the café kitchen).
Another impressive part of this castle is its location with gardens down to the sea. Andy Hughes is the resident Falconer, an absolute font of knowledge and dedicated conservationist. His bird displays included Cedar the eagle owl, 2 golden eagles, falcons and hawks. Andy spent around an hour explaining his work, caring for and protecting these wonderful birds as well as treating us all to a unique flying display. We both agreed that this was the most interesting and best presented falconry show we have seen – you should make sure that you get to see Andy and these magnificent birds if you visit the castle.
We continued North, on through Wick, round Sinclair’s Bay to our next stop at Dunnet Bay.
Our trip along the East coast had turned out to be far more interesting than we had been led to believe, most travellers choosing to talk only of the beauty of the west coast (and indeed it is breathtakingly beautiful). In our experience the East coast was an important part of our route 500 journey, with its own beauty, history and personality and well worth our time exploring.
Part 3: Puffins, Lidl's and Hot Chocolate!
<!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->Worthy read with wonderful pictures!