Going the wrong way round?
1st June and we are off on our much anticipated tour of Scotland. It had been months in the planning and although Scotland is well known for its wonderful Wild Camping, we decided to book our sites, basically for the comfort of their on site facilities. We did meet a fair few travellers who were wild camping and there are some truly amazing places to spend a night or two in the wild. So options to suit all budgets and tastes. (Tip if you prefer the facilities and security of a site it’s a good idea to pre book as the route has become very popular). Our main priority however was to take our time and explore this beautiful country.
It wasn’t until we started researching this trip that it seemed the accepted way round the Route 500 is clockwise. We couldn’t understand the logic for that and never people to follow the accepted rule, we decided to go ‘the wrong way round’. We were following the Great Glen up to Inverness and the Black Isle so it seemed logical to continue northwards, up the east Coast, but quite honestly I don’t think it really matters, its simply beautiful whichever way you decide to explore.
For this holiday we used several travel books and one that stands out is The North Coast 500 Guide Book by Charles Tait. Apart from the fact that it details the route ‘the other way round’ it is easy to follow with maps of the route and is full of detailed descriptions of places to visit. The book also includes 700 original photographs.
I never travel without my travel books and maps. It’s surprising how many I can squeeze into the pockets of the passenger door. So I thought it might be helpful to write a separate ‘book blog’ and list all the publications I have found useful. (It’s an ever-increasing list).
Back to our travels and once 'over the border' we stopped at Cairn Lodge Services, between junctions 11 and 12 of the M74. For those of you who know Tebay and Gloucester Services, Cairn Lodge is run by the same company. It is small (and all the better for it) and they sell local produce and good food in an attractive and clean environment. We enjoyed a great bacon bap and some delicious coffee before driving on to Luss, a small but popular village on the banks of Loch Lomond and to our first site Luss Camping and Caravanning Club Site (see where to stay blog). We had a beautiful pitch with a little beach right next to the Loch and overlooking Glen Lomond which, at 3194 ft is one of the 282 Munroes. As it was 26 degrees the loch was teeming with swimmers and people enjoying all kinds of water sports. We were booked in for the minimum two nights and settled in with a paddle and a walk along the waters edge.
MIDGES (Mi-jee, ‘no-see-ums’, wee beasties)
Anyone who wants to travel to Scotland needs to read up on these pesky little critters. It does depend on when and where you go as to how you might, or might not, be affected.
There are several ways of protecting yourself:- a hat and midge net – a mosquito net will not do, the wee beastie will fly through that. In Scotland and in most Tourist Information Shops you can buy Smidge Insect Repellent, or some people use Avon Skin so Soft. You can also buy clothing impregnated with chemicals to keep the Mi-jee away.
I guess you might know why I am saying this, we were absolutely inundated with them on the first morning and we now understand how they could send you quite mad after a while. Luckily we were fairly well prepared although Garry did look like he had a bad attack of Chickenpox!
Back to Luss, it is a small and interesting village to explore, a place of pilgrimage since 520 when St Kessog was martyred there. There is a Pilgrims Walk, a Viking Hog Stone in the churchyard, numerous trips across the Loch from the pier and many and varied watersports. Combined with a good number of cafes and restaurants, Luss makes for an interesting stopover. I even managed to get in some sketching, it goes without saying it is a great place for any aspiring artist like me.
A little reluctant to move on, but eager to see Glencoe and Rannoch Moor, we leave Luss and take the A82 North towards Fort William and Ben Nevis.
We have travelled this part of our route before and its sheer beauty still takes our breath away, Rannoch Moor, even with a busy A82 running through it, demands a brief stop and a short stroll from the road you are rewarded with a silence and a stillness that envelopes you. It would be so easy to tarry a while but we drive on through Glencoe, whose mountains tower all around you. There are numerous places to pull over here and admire the mountains, streams and waterfalls that are in abundance and quite majestic. We visit the NTS Glencoe Discovery Centre and enjoy a coffee on their viewing platform, with nothing but the sound of the birds for company. There are walks from here too and a Camping and Caravanning Club site right next door. In the exhibition I read about a young student from a local school who when asked what Glencoe meant to him answered, “Everything” and at that moment I understood how this wonderful place could hold your soul.
For more information opening times etc
Back in Hygge we venture on through Fort William, past Ben Nevis and along the west side of the dark waters of Loch Ness, stopping off at the romantically situated ruin of Urquhart Castle. Well worth a stop. It can get busy but there is a lot to see and there is a wonderful introductory video which you should watch before you explore the ruins. (Entry charge)
(reduced rates for English Heritage members)
Finally after a wonderful day travelling we make it to the Black Isle and our site on the beach at Rosemarkie.
Part 2 - Fairies, Dolphins and War of the Worlds
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