I am sat here with the doors open this morning, watching a heron fly over the lake behind us, before it decided to land opposite Hygge, where he is now standing, patiently waiting to catch his breakfast. The mist is lifting and the fishermen are moving off, making way for the dog walkers and the joggers. The ducks are already squabbling and the campsite is starting to stir with early travellers setting out on their way.
There is something about these early morning sounds when we are camping, all muffled and muted in the misty air, that roots me in nature; homely, unrushed and natural. Nature doing its thing and people going about, doing their thing, there’s a harmony to it this morning.
I am certainly ‘Enjoying life’s simple Pleasures’, Garry is off collecting the fresh bread from Hans, the Dutch campsite owner and I am thinking it might be breakfast in PJs this morning.
We are starting week eight of our French adventure in Saint Germaine Les Belles, on the Camping Montreal Site, a stop over for us on our way from the Dordogne to The Loire. We are here for two nights only and hopefully today will be a good day to catch up on our blog, which we are very behind on now.
Wifi access has been very variable on this tour, from absolutely useless to next to useless on most sites, whether you pay or not, it doesn’t seem to make a difference. Although to be honest there has been so many things to see, do and experience over these past weeks, we have been shattered most nights and usually too tired to write it all down in the evenings!
So to continue our story:-
From the majestic Mont St Michel, we made a brief stop in the very pretty walled town of Dinan where we walked the walls and explored the cobbled streets. We then moved around the coast of Northern Brittany to Les 7 Iles Camping in Trelevern (sounds almost Cornish) indeed the coastline here is very like Cornwall, only everything is bigger.
The site, which is part of the Seasonova group, is located virtually on the beach protected only by a low granite wall. There is an amazing view over the islands - and yes there are seven. From most of the pitches you can be on the beach in seconds - wonderful. The pitches are large and most have a hedge for privacy. The facilities are a little dated, and unheated, but kept very clean. All the staff are extremely helpful and always smiling. As with most sites in France you can order fresh bread every day.
A little history
The Breton People are very proud of their heritage and language, which is a mix of Cornish/Welsh and Celtic. All the road signs are written in French and Breton and like the Welsh and Cornish they were prevented from speaking their own language in the past and as a result the language was almost lost. Their local costume includes an interesting white tall hat for the ladies, very striking indeed and I was lucky to spot a local lady in traditional dress.
We explored the local area on foot walking along the coast and admiring the wonderful views. Known as Cote de Granit Rose, the pink glittery hue of the spectacular rock formations are unique and it appears as though this marvellous stone is also used for building houses, pavements, walls, mini golf courses in fact everywhere you look you will see it, including out to sea where wonderful formations appear as the tide recedes.
As a recommended tour we drove along the D788 on a circular route from Trelevern via Perros-Guirec, Tregastrel, Trebeurden and Lannion for the views and what spectacular views they are. We came across La Greve Blanche a wide expanse of beach with some of the most amazing rock formations we have ever seen.
We very much enjoyed walking and exploring this unique part of Brittany for a few days, before driving across country on the D785 through Monts D’Arree and over Roc’h Trevezel with wonderful views across Parc Nat. Reg. D’Armorique. We clambered to the top before enjoying our picnic lunch admiring the view over the lake.
Joining the D63 we drove on to Quimper and the site we had booked for a stay over the Easter holiday - L’Orangerie de Lanniron.
This site is located in the gardens of a chateau. Still lived in and also used as a location for weddings, the gardens are immaculately kept and it also has a golf course. Situated on the L’Odel River you don’t have to go far for a lovely walk along the water. It is a large well-kept site with modern facilities, large pitches a walk to a great artisan boulangerie patisserie and a wooded walk into town. The facilities weren’t regularly cleaned whilst we were there, but we put that down to it being a bank holiday. The staff were friendly and keen to help with tourist information.
An aside:-
The French Boulangerie/Patisserie
Now we are in week eight we can say with some authority the French definitely know how to bake bread and make cakes. I wish we had kept a note of all the local bakers we have frequented so we could name them, because they are indeed Artisans of their profession. We have eaten some of the most delicious bread, pastries and cakes and have had to be very strict with ourselves not to over indulge!!
Indeed we were parked outside a Boulangerie in Quimper when we were approached by an elderly Frenchman. He asked us if Hygge was a Camping Car? When we replied in the affirmative he wanted to know if we actually slept in it? Shock, horror:- ‘C’est tres tres petit!’ He wasn’t convinced so we had to show him round, which took all of 30 seconds and he still didn’t look too convinced, shaking his head and laughing as he walked away!
Whilst in Quimper we backtracked a little because we wanted to tour around Presque’ile de Crozon. (Presque’ile means nearly an island). So taking the D887 we drove up to Crozon and followed the coastal road around this wonderful scenic nearly island. At Pointe des Espagnols and on the site of a Napoleonic Fort is the most spectacular view over the Rade de Brest to the city of Brest. We watched numerous tiny yachts below us sailing the waters on what was a beautiful sunny day.
Driving on past Camaret-sur-Mer a popular seaside town, we came across the Alignements de Lagatjar our first experience of the majestic megaliths littering this part of Brittany and a taste of what was to come in Carnac. Adjacent to this site was the ruin of a once beautiful Manor:- Ruines du manoir de Saint-Pol-Roux-le-Magnifique, which overlooks the bay and a wonderful beach down below, which of course we had to stroll, along with the many locals soaking up the lovely sunshine. Travelling further on along this road we came to a huge memorial at Pointe de Pen-Hir - Aux Bretons France Libre. There is a small museum here dedicated to the history of the submarines during the war. We then picnicked at Cap de Chevre and concluded our tour back through Crozon and then on to Quimper, a really relaxing and memorable day out.
Brittany we have decided certainly offers so much as a holiday destination, with its very friendly and welcoming people, beaches, coastal views, very pretty towns and architecture and with an interesting history too.
Before we left Quimper we did explore the town after a delightful forty minute walk through the woods and along the river from the campsite. Quimper has a large Cathedral and many cafes and restaurants to enjoy.
After a day of ‘chores’ (somehow you can never manage to escape them) we moved on down the coast to Carnac and those wonderful Megaliths.
France 3 – Megaliths, Dolman and another Nearly Island
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