I must go down to the sea again,
To the lonely sea and the sky;
I left my shoes and socks there -
I wonder if they’re dry?
I must go down to the sea again - Spike Milligan
Whilst we were on our walk this morning I spotted a Cormorant diving in the river. I have never seen this sea bird so far inland before and was very surprised to see one today. It did however make me think of the sea and how much I am missing our coastal travels. Those clear turquoise blues of the seas off Cornwall. The wonderful sea frets that rise and fall in the blink of an eye. The soft sands of Northumberland. The fossils in Dorset to the shingle of Chesil Beach. I miss the cliffside walks, the soaring seabirds and the glorious colours of the spring flowers. The fresh smell of the sea, the strong smell of the seaweed and even the pong of the fishing harbour. I am missing it all, well perhaps not so much the fishy smell if I'm honest!
Most of our holidays over the years have been enjoyed on islands, because and I appreciate this now, for me a holiday has to be within shouting distance of the sea and only an island really seems to fit the bill.
I wonder, is it because I live on an island? Or because our history is inextricably linked to the sea and you are never more than 70 miles from the sea ,wherever you are in this country. Is it because part of my family history is linked to the Shetlands? Those remote islands that lie between the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. Personally, I think it’s a combination of all these things and I wonder how many of us, if we looked into our own family history, would find a link to the sea or the seaside.
How many of us remember that excitement of trying to be the first person to spot the sea after several uncomfortable hours travelling for our annual holiday to the coast?
So when did our love affair with the seaside begin? Well we can probably partially blame that old reprobate George, Prince Regent, who in 1811 decided his small, modest Marine Pavilion in Brighton was not good enough for him now he was Regent to his incapable Father George 3rd (who I might add, also loved the odd trip to the seaside). So he extended it and filled it with expensive artefacts. He rather liked a good time did young George; good food, good wine, good women, well you can guess the rest, but his presence in Brighton did have an enormous impact on its popularity and travelling to the seaside became very popular for the wealthy.
Then of course came the Victorians and the burgeoning middle classes with more money to spend and more free time. They particularly enjoyed the seaside and flocked to various coastal towns in their thousands. Piers were built and activities were designed to entertain, from boat trips to nightly entertainments in the theatre at the end of the pier. What a thrill!
During the 1920’s and 30’s there was a boom in keeping healthy and looking tanned, this resulted in the building of some of our most iconic seaside buildings in the wonderful Art Deco style. Lido’s were designed and built on the sea fronts some of which you can still use today, Penzance has a beautiful example. Also the seaside Pavilions with their cafe’s and dance halls. The wonderful De La Warr Pavilion in Bexhill-on-Sea, immediately comes to mind.
After the second world war, when the country was at a very low ebb, everything possible was turned over to be bright, colourful and full of fun. During the Post war years the typical British seaside holiday we would recognise today, was born. With many workers enjoying paid holidays for the first time, families were more than happy to splash a bit of cash on a weeks stay in a boarding house on the seafront of their favourite seaside town. Does anyone remember the ‘wakes weeks’?
Nowadays (pandemics permitting) many of us travel abroad for our seaside fix. And there it is the majority of us still go to the sea for our holidays, all be it to foreign climes - some of the time.
Slightly away from the seaside, of course we have a long naval history as a Nation. Our Navy, once the envy of the world ( I read that somewhere), engaged in some memorable ocean battles, mostly against the French (nothing new there then). From the Glorious First of June in the Mid-Atlantic in 1794 to Nelson (and who hasn’t heard of this diminutive fella) and the Battle of Trafalgar, off Cape Trafalgar, Spain in 1805. To the Battle of Jutland this time against the Germans in the North Sea in 1916. Our history would be very different if it wasn’t for our relationship with the sea. Luckily we have some of the deepest natural harbours in the world for our ships, which is very advantageous and not bad for a small island. If you are interested in Naval History Portsmouth Historic Dockyard is a wonderful place to visit.
The sea, for those who rely on it to live and work, seems to run in their veins and they talk so passionately about their lives on the ocean, beside the ocean and even in the ocean.
Whether you work by the sea, live by the sea or visit the seaside once a year for your hols we have all heard of the heroic endeavours of the RNLI, to whom thousands of people owe their lives. This most wonderful institute that saves lives at sea and along our coasts, boasts of supporters from all over the nation, even those towns and villages 70 miles inland. I recall walking down the high street in Knowle, a village on the outskirts of Solihull (almost the dead centre of England) and being greeted by a Lifeboat surrounded by people hurriedly fishing out (excuse the pun) their change to drop in the collection box. Excited youngsters desperate to be picked up to see in the lifeboat. What compels people so far inland to support a sea and coastal rescue charity?
I can't mention the Brits love of the seaside without a quick mention of the saucy postcards! Enough said - probably.
For the romantics amongst us I thought it would be worth quoting some British poetry about the sea, unsurprisingly there is a huge amount to choose from.
I must go down to the seas again, the lonely sea and the sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by;
And the wheel's kick and the wind's song and the white sail's shaking,
And a grey mist on the seas's face, and a grey dawn breaking.
Sea Fever -John Masefield
The sea is calm tonight.
The tide is full, the moon lies fair
Upon the straits; on the French coast the light
Gleams and is gone; the cliffs of England stand,
Glimmering and vast, out in the tranquil bay.
Dover Beach - Matthew Arnold
But such a tide as moving seems asleep,
Too full for sound and foam,
When that which drew from out the boundless deep
Turns again home.
Crossing the Bar - Alfred, Lord Tennyson
One for the littlies:
The Owl and the Pussy-Cat went to sea
In a beautiful pea-green boat,
They took some honey and plenty of money,
Wrapped up in a five pound note.
The Owl and the Pussy-Cat - Edward Lear
Does anyone remember those wonderful Railway Posters advertising rather romantic visions of British Seaside Resorts often comparing them with exotic French towns to where the idle rich retired during the season? Some of which bore no resemblance to the real experience I might add! I don't think they worried about advertising standards then.
Never thought of Aberystwyth and Biarritz being too similar if I'm honest.
Fundamentally we are an Island People. So we either learned to live with and respect the sea or we remained cut off from the rest of the world. Seems unbelievable in the modern day but before the channel tunnel and flight, there was only one way off!
I hope you have enjoyed this short blog as much as I have writing it. It has brought back many happy memories of my travels. I really can’t wait to get back on the road again.
Hope you are all keeping safe and well.
Caroline
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